Category Archives: Ukraine

What’s in a Ukrainian Bean?

Marta presented me with a living family heirloom during my 2025 visit to Lviv, Ukraine: The small satchel she gave me contained the 15 small black and 21 large white beans shown below. The seeds came to me with a 100-year old story, they left Ukraine with me via Germany to be smuggled to the USA, and they will create new stories in my future gardens where I live. These special heirlooms from a special place and hard time are about food and gardening, about soil and home, and anout cycles of life, hope, and survival. Below on the left are the beans in 2025 in Lviv, the single white one sits next to me right now in Bremerhaven, Germany, and the bowl in bottom right is my first harvest from a first planting of a single black and white seed in my American garden.

Marta gave the seeds as a good-bye present. She told me that they came from the garden of her grandmother who still tends it in a village near Lviv. Family histories say that her great-grandfather started the garden in the 1920ies. It was a time when the Ukrainian language was spoken in the rural areas while in Lviv Polish was the official language, because Lviv then part of Galicia transfered from the Austrian-Hungarian Empire to Poland after Germany and Austria lost the First World War 1914-18. Areas farther to the East such as Kyiv or Odesa or Dnipro were occupied by the Red Army of Russia after they had won the Russian Civil War 1917-22 against many different factions all opposed to Bolshevik rule. And after these times of war and destruction Marta’s Great-Grandfather planted a garden to nourish his family with beans that were planted year after year with seeds saved for the next year for 100 years until today. Shown below is what came of the seeds when planted two in my garden at home in the USA in July of 2026. Yes, the smaller plant of black beans I put within a bed of strawberries while the larger white bean plant lives peacefully with corn and tomatoes.

The beans were feeding Marta’s family in the then Polish part of Ukraine while several million peasants living in the the Russian part of Ukraine were systematically starved to death in the 1930ies. This so-called “Holodomor” was a planned, man-made genocide to break the independence of Ukrainian peasants working the land. State-ordered mass murder depopulated the country-side where peasants had been growing food for centuries. The goal of this “collectivization” was complete state-control and subsequent industrialization of agriculture. Lew Kopelev born 1912 in Kyiv participated in this mass murder by starvation as a 18-year old firebrand bolshevist as he described it as a Soviet dissident living in Germany in his 1977 memoir “Education of a True Believer.” A more complete historical accounting and analysis is the work of Roger Conquest from 1986 called “Harvest of Sorrow: Soviet Collectivization and the Terror-Famine.” Living in the then Polish part of Ukraine, Marta’s great-grandfather survived this famine as neither secret police nor state-sponsored communist thugs took his seeds.

Yet a decade later, Nazi-Germany and Soviet-Russia together invaded Poland in 1939 thus starting the Second World War. Only 2 years later in 1941 did Hitler’s Germany invaded its former ally that was Stalin’s Russia. As a skilled, productive, and respected individual gardener and citizen Marta’s great-grandfather became instanteneous a target to the new Russian occupation. His home was looted, his house burnt, and Soviet authorities arrested him as an “Enemy of the People.” Deporting him with his family to Siberia, they shot him to death. His wife and child survived to eventually return to the garden outside Lviv where the beans kept growing to this day.

I learnt this story 5 weeks ago when I emailed Marta’s about my beans. During my daily garden walks I observed that the black beans turned purple flowers into fruit while the white bean with white flowers did not … or so it appeared. Marta in Lviv checked with her aunt and cousin who had no such problems with seeds grown in Ukraine from the same stock. As it turned out, my white beans did turn fruit also, albeit at a much slower pace than the black beans. Both were planted the same day in late June and the smaller black beans mature about 10-14 days earlier than the larger white ones. And as I moved back to Germany in early September my wife Dragonfly harvested the first beans shown, perhaps a little early, but we are still experimenting and learning. This 2026 planting was a first trial to see what Dragonfly and I could learn about growing these heirloom beans.

Now, what will happen to that single seed left in my small studio appartment 500 m from the North Sea in Bremerhaven, Germany? Well, last weekend I discovered an Urban Gardening Project called “Der Zolli.” It is a community project to care for a small city park and it includes a large number of small raised bed, fruit trees, well-kept paths, a compost pile, as well as utility building, water tank, tools of the gardening trade, and socializing sitting areas.

The place combines German organization, chaos, and whimsy. There is a board that explains what community tasks need doing, which tasks are already done, and how long each task may take. There is a place for the water canisters, there is a place for the wheel-barrows, and there is a place for the beer cases. A small shipping container has been converted to a cafe which even serves alkohol. Recall that this is a public place. A stage for art, music, or other events is there as are children playing areas. It is all so civilized with lots of creature comforts and socialization.

Once a month the club has an “Action Day” where people meet to work the gardens and newcomers like myself are welcome to help and explore. And as this is the end of the garden season, it is, I feel, a good start to prepare for gardening in 2027. Hence my goal is the either build a new raised bed, or inherit a vacated bed, or edge out a new ground bed. Wood, tools, and well composted soil is all there as well.

Perhaps this is a future home of my single Ukrainian bean? The heirloom bean from Marta’s great-grandfather from Ukraine can thus find yet a place in North Germany to give life and nourishment in a never ending cycle.

Impressions of Lviv, Ukraine in Summer 2026

I just returned from Lviv after 3 weeks. This European city of 700,000 in Galicia contains an amazing tapestry of people, culture, and history. Churches are filled to the brim by believers of the Greek Catholic, Roman Catholic, Armenian Catholic, and Ukrainian Orthodox faith churches. Synagogues survived as ruins while its people vanished. People of all ages pray for peace, tranquility, and life.

Russia invaded Ukraine first in 2014 and fully in 2022. The current war is easy to miss in Lviv, because at the surface life appears normal with vibrant street life. Cafes, restaurants, parties, street vendors, bars, theatres, museums, concert halls, and universities are all open and full of joyous people. Traffic, too, appears normal with trams, buses, cars, electric scooters, and pedestrians all competing for space on the cobblestoned streets. Roses bloom, strawberries and dill grow in gardens, and school children march with teacher through the Old Town from museum to school and back via busy water fountains along boulevards. Thousands come together for Open-Air rock concerts such as Zhadan i Sobaky (Ukrainian: Жадан і собаки). It is one of my favorite music groups these days who performed in Lviv 2 weeks ago when I saw them at the Rebernya. Awesome horn section …

A closer look and knowledge of current events, however, reveals the war every hour of every day. Random mutilation or death by Russian drone, missile, or fire is unlikely in Lviv, but it happens and one never knows when. Air raids occur many days or more accurately nights. Public alarms systems warn of arial explosives heading towards Lviv. Ignoring the alarms, people effectively play Russian Roulette. The nightly terror affects millions while killing, drip, drip, drip, 3-5 people every nights somewhere in Ukraine. Sometimes a ballistic missile annihilates an appartment complex and 20 people die while 50 survive. Russians also like double-tap attackes to kill the rescue workers in a second attack of the same place. It is a war crime, but what’s new? It is what Russia does to project “strength.” The goal is to make life painful and unlivable. Hence public resistance is expressed by attending concerts, bars, restaurants, museums, or playing chess on benches along boulevards, or skateboarding in urban parks and playgrounds, or hiking weekends in the mountains. Live and enjoy life to the fullest as you never know when it all may end.

Another subtle reminder of war are the gas-powered generators in the street that are everywhere in Lviv. They range in size from smallish units we buy at home improvement stores to large industrial units to power an office building, hospital, or school. Most are standing loosely on or are bolted to the sidewalk, some have a locked cage with or without an artful roof. Some become objects of art as they are painted like a mural or adorned with tasteful graffiti. After a while one does not even see them anymore. The eye adjusts to the mostly silent generators. Once electricty is out, however, their noise becomes deafening and their purpose becomes clear immediately. Backup power kicks in as rolling backouts result from another Russian attack powerplants. Friends in Lviv told me of times last winter where they could not make hot water for a tea or coffee at temperatures reached -20 Celsius (-4 Fahrenheit) both inside and outside their appartements, because of Russia’s campaign to remove heat and electricity from Lviv’s population for hours and days. Energy systems were repaired only to be bombed and destroyed again the following day or week. Another winter is coming …

Unlike 2024 or 2025, a minute of silence is observed across the entire country now. Every day at 9 am all life stops for 60 seconds. Men, women, and children all interrupt what they are doing and remind themselves and everyone of the men and women fighting and dying in this war. Everyone stands up and most people pray silently or think of loved ones. Walking along a small side street one day, I even saw cars stop on the street, turn emergency lights on, and wait 60 seconds. The food delivery motorcycle did the same. Pedestrians stopped, held they right hand over their hearts, and looked in the direction of the closest church. It is a solemn and powerful act of remembrance that despite the good life, it is not good for all as about 800,000 soldiers provide the protection for the other 36 million to live in freedom. This implies that each Ukrainian soldier defends about 45 civilians. In the USA we would need about 8 Million soldiers to provide a similar level of protection.

Preparing for races at a meet organized by One Team Forces, a group that supports veterans by focusing on rehabilitation and returning to an active life. [adapted from New York Times, June-25, 2026]

Another sad feature of the war are the many men without arms or legs or eyes who walk the streets on foot or in wheelchairs. They are about 25-45 years of age, physically fit, and like everyone else they visit restaurants, bars, churches, concerts, and sport clubs often with friends or loved ones. It all appears so normal even though it is not. The New York Times reported today of how the large number of wounded veterans learn new sports, adapt to old sports, and bond with each other by pushing their bodies and experiences. Every morning I saw them walk and run in Stryiskyi Park and play competitive bocce on weekends. A small section of the park was then closed for this competition with at least 30 sectioned fields. About 1 in 5 players had missing limbs, but that did not diminish the competitive fun with a picnic-like atmosphere.

I left Lviv sunday with a heavy heart, but then I was thinking about my wonderfully upbeat 18-year old students of the B1 group of German Language Summer School at the Ukrainian Catholic University. This video expresses their perspective on how we worked together with much fun and laughter [162 Mb video]:

Video of B1 Group of German Summer School 2026. Song “Mensch am Mond” by Leftovers (2024).

I promise myself to return next year, but then for at least 4 weeks. There is some hiking to be done in the Carpathian Mountains.

Faith, Freedom, and War: German Summer School in Ukraine

The Ukrainian Catholic University in Lviv invited me to teach at their Summer Language School. Until last week I worked with ~50 Ukrainian students from about 10 in the morning to 5 in the evening monday through saturday. We met daily in classrooms, on the lawn outside, and in pubs over food and beer. The main purpose of the Summer School for the 17-21 year old students was to learn German as their second, third, or fourth foreign language. Their Ukrainian teachers knew every rule of German grammar, spoke perfect German, and half of them had PhDs in German literature, linguistics, education, and/or language theory.

Students and teachers alike love their country, their faith, and their freedom deeply. All hate the war that Russia wages on them personally: Every day Russia tries to kill them by drones and missiles, tries to erase their history, tries to pillage their resources, and tries to exterminate their language, culture, and freedom. Russia’s war is present in Ukraine at every location for every person at all times. Nevertheless, I went to open-air concerts, bars, restaurants, and churches filled with joyous young and old people with and without small children. This very public life serves as a defiant and powerful act of resistance to Russia’s war as does vibrant street art and music.

The people of Ukraine need our weapons to protect their freedom to be human and to be free from the violence, terror, and oppression imposed by Russia on them. Never have I seen a people believing in God as strongly as the Ukrainian students and teachers whom I met last 3 weeks. Furthermore, Lviv centers many overlapping faiths with churches of the Greek Catholic, Roman Catholic, Armenian Catholic, Ukrainian Orthodox, Russian Orthodox, and even a small Jewish community. Furthermore, I met both atheist and agnostic students studying at the Ukrainian Catholic University. This rich and diverse tapestry of believes exists in overlapping circles of ancient history, song, prayers, and common purpose. All are united and opposed to Russia’s terror of random death by drone or missile. People are tired, yes, tired and exhaused by 3.5 years of war, but people are united for the noble purpose to be free, to be at peace with their neighbors, and to be part of a liberal and democratic Europe. Russia responded to these desires with war, because Russia perceives a free, creative, and productive Ukraine as a threat to its own sclerotic, decadent, and corrupt society.

Unlike Russia, Ukraine values individual life and liberty, but Russia has 4 soldiers for every one Ukraine has. How can I best help my Ukrainian friends in their just defence to protect their freedom and to be part of a peaceful Europe? They need air defence radars and missile systems, they need artillery shells and cannons, they need tanks, helicopters, and fighter jets, they need drones and electronic jamming gear. I struggle with this question, write and call my U.S. senators and Congresswoman in Delaware to support Ukraine, and talk to friends and family about my travels to Ukraine, but it all seems puny and I am frustrated and impatient. In those moments I recall the wise words passed on to me 2 weeks ago by an older man of Irish-Catholic faith:

Act like the world depends on you,
but pray it depends on God.

Ignatius of Antioch (~100 AD)
Ignatius of Antioch

Walking Lviv, Ukraine: Art, Life, War, and History

An air raid alarm interupted my first night’s sleep near Rynok Square in Lviv, Ukraine at 2:30 am on June-12, 2024 after 22 hours on a train the day prior. Sirens outside, mobile loud-speakers on the streets, and my cell phone all blared the message “Attention. Air Raid Alert. Proceed to the nearest shelter. Don’t be careless. Your overconfidence is your weakness.” Unsure on what to do, I listened, if there was any commotion outside my AirBnB in the stairways of the 3-story appartment building with residents moving whom I could follow. As there was no such noise, I did nothing, and quickly fell back asleep. At 5 am I woke again, got up to check e-mail when yet another such alarm started. This time I decided to go outside to see what the city does during an air-raid alarm at 6 am. All I saw were a few men my age cleaning the sidewalks and joggers passing me in a forested park:

My plan for the day was to find the 250-year old Lychakiv Cemetery that was established 1787 when the Habsburg Empire of Austria-Hungary controlled Lviv and Galicia as a result of the the First Partition of Poland in 1772. The cemetery is a large wooded park in a hilly area near the Botanical Gardens to the East of the city. Today it is a “State History and Culture Museeum” of Ukraine that Polish and Ukrainian volunteers have restored, both lovingly and at times illegally, for the last 50 years. Prominent Lviv citizens of culture, science, and politics as well as soldiers and victims of war and oppression both past and present are buried here. Meandering paths lead through lush vegetation with old trees and artful sculptures, grave stones, and icons.

I spent well over 3 hours wandering along wide and narrow pathways up and down the hillsides to marvel at artful displays to remember those who walked the streets of Lviv the last 250 years. The style of letters, mosaics, sculptures, and vegitation changed from section to section all added over the centuries when different countries ruled Lviv from the Austria-Hungarian empire (1792-1918), the newly establish Poland (1918-39), the Soviet Union (1939-41), Nazi Germany (1941-44), the Soviet Union (1944-91) until it finally became part of independent Ukraine in 1991.

My favorite memorial is that of a person on a boat crossing a wavy river. The copper-colored boat even as an eye at its forward head just above the water line. The river appears to come down from the wooded hill behind it, but the boat floats above the the water bridging the river perhaps indicating another “spiritual” dimension. It all merges in a harmoneous way in multiple directions indicating both time and space. The river falls down at the edge, however, the river also falls farther towards graves of soldiers from both past (1918-19) and present (2014-present) wars. Three Americans aviators such as Edmund Pike Graves are burried here also. More than 100 years ago they supported Polish troops flying early bi-planes against Ukrainian nationalists.

Among the many graves is that of the Polish mathematician Stefan Banach (1892-1945) who did pioneering work in the 1930ies when he was teaching at Lviv University. His fundamental work on vector spaces (“Functional Analysis” in English or “Funktionen Theorie” in German) applies to how I analyze climate data from the waters, ice, and glaciers around Greenland. Learning about Banach and the Lwow School of Mathematics, I discovered that the scientists living and working in Lwow/Lviv until 1939 also contributed to the Manhattan Project and the Nuclear Age. On my subsequent visit to Krakow in Poland 200 miles to the West, I found a bench in a park with a sculpture of Dr. Banach and some of his work:

A young Dr. Banach sits on the right in a conversation during his school years in Krakow. He left to teach mathematics in Lviv in 1918 where he lived until lung cancer killed him at age 53 in 1945. He is burried near the entrance of the cementary.

Figure: Polish Military Cemetery 1918-20 (“Eaglets Cemetery”) in Lviv, Ukraine of the 1918-20 war between Poland and Ukrainian Army of Galicia (bottom) adjacent to the memorial to the Ukrainian Galician Army (top left). Three U.S. American aviators are burried here also (top right).

The last burial field I visited only from a distance, because it is here where Lviv buries her current war dead. Almost every day new graves are dug and filled. From the distance it looks like an ocean of flags both of the blue and yellow of Ukraine and a range of battle and historical flags of different military units. I noticed that the people who enter this section first checked a large board near the entrance to see where in this section their loved-ones are buried. The long list of names and grave locations includes the dates of birth (1962-2005) and death (2022-present).

The war and terror forced by Russia onto Ukraine presents itself on main squares in central Lviv as well. One prominent public space that I passed every day included about 16 poster boards of 25-year old combat medic Iryna Tsybukh whom Russian invaders killed near Kharkiv the week before my arrival in Lviv. And every days I saw school children, shoppers, workers, and tourists passing this place dedicated to a brave local women. A year before her burial at Lychakiv Cemetery she wrote to her younger brother describing her wishes in case of her death

I don’t like seeing you mourn, but time and this despair will pass, and we’ll have to continue living life. So don’t waste time suffering; live on.

Iryna Tsybukh (1998-2024)

An equally eloquent obiturary appeared in the New York Times on Aug.-22, 2024. I took the photo of a poster board in Lviv bottom right, the other photos are from her Instagram page and public sources.

This was my only my second of four day as a tourist in Lviv, but here and then I decided to extend my stay. The public life I saw, the people I met, the food I ate, the art I admired, and the history I smelled at every corner made me extend my stay for another 4 days. There was a concert at the Opera and a Ukrainian Wine Festival on the weekend I did not want to miss. Furthermore, I will travel to Lviv again this summer, but this time I will stay for 2-3 weeks as part of a summer language program of the Ukrainian Catholic University. I met one of its mentors on the bus from Lviv to Krakow in Poland as we both returned from there by train to Germany. I am very excited to meet, converse, eat, and live with young Ukrainian students for 2-3 weeks.

References:

Mick, C., 2011: Incompatible Experiences: Poles, Ukrainians and Jews in lviv under Soviet and German Occupation, 1939-44, Journal of Contemporary History, 46 (2), 336-363.

Snyder, T., 2003a: The causes of the Ukrainian-Polish Ethnic Cleansing 1943, Past & Present, 179, 197-234.

Snyder, T., 2003b: The Reconstruction of Nations – Poland Ukraine, Lithuania, Belarus 1569-1999. Yale University Press, New Haven, CT, 367 pp.

Snyder, T., 2010: Bloodlands – Europe between Hitler and Stalin, Basic Books, New York, NY, 524 pp.

Zhurzhhenko, T., 2013: The border as Pain and Memory – Commemorating the Polish-Ukrainian Conflict of 1918-1919 in Lviv and Przemysl, Nationalities Papers: The Journal of Nationalism and Ethnicity, DOI:10.1080/00905992.2013.801416.

Walking Lviv 2024: Legacy of Viking, Russian, and German Occupations

The Russian dictator Vladimir Putin claims Ukraine based on a false reading of “Kyivan Rus” (see map below) about 1100 years ago. With equal ignorance I here claim it for Sweden or Denmark or Lithuania or Poland, because the Kyivan Rus were a mishmash of Slavic, Viking, and nomadic tribes who settled and ruled the forests and steppes between the Baltic and Black Seas between 800 to 1100 AD. Furthermore, while “Rus” is the root for “Russia” (or “Russland” in German), “Rus” derives from the Old Norse “rods” which means “men who row.”

Putting another spin on old histories, I proclaim that Russia is, historically, a fringe principality that belongs to Ukraine. So, lets call Putin’s claim to Ukraine what it is: A colonial, imperialistic land grab along the same lines of an Adolf Hitler and a Joseph Stalin who divided Eastern Europe in 1939 with no regard to the people they both oppressed and slaughtered. Visiting Lviv in the summer of 2024, I find the bloody histories of these “Bloodlands” (Snyder, 2010) everywhere:

On my evening stroll on my first day in Lviv I stumble across an overgrown and unkept green space at the end of a small and winding residential street up a hill. Along my accidental path I find a 10 feet high wooden cross near semi-collapsed and overgrown one-story buildings that resemble barracks. Red poppies and barbed wire enclose the cross while burnt candles litter its base. An inscription in both Ukrainian and English tells me, that I am standing within Stalag-328 where 140,000 prisonors of war (POW) were murdered 1941-44. Nazi-Germany maintained this POW camp where the death rate among its Soviet, Belgian, French, and Italian soldiers exceeded 50%.

Half an hour later I find a huge 3-story building along a busy road that covers an entire city block. Later I find out, that this is the St. Bridget’s Convent for Women built in the 17th century, but it serves as a prison for the last 250 years which perhaps explains its decrepit look on Horodotska Street. On one of its walls I find a plaque in Ukrainian, Polish, and English stating that the Stalin’s Secret Police, the NKVD, shot 1,172 citizens of Lviv in this building on 19th of June 1941. This massacre at the Brygidki prison was part of a mass killing throughout Soviet occupied Poland and Ukraine.

For context, the Hitler-Stalin treaty of 1939 divided Poland such that Lviv was occupied by Stalin’s troops from 1939-41. About 1.25 Mil. “Enemies of the People” of Polish and Ukrainian descent where deported in 2 years. This occupation ended when Nazi-Germany invaded the Soviet Union and captured Lviv on 30th of June 1941. Throughout Lviv, Poland, and Ukraine the NKVD committed massacres of local populations. In Lviv alone about 7,000 Ukrainian, Polish, and Jewish citizen were shot or blow up in their prison cells days before Hitler’s troops entered the city to start another massive killing cycle.

Immediately after German troops occupied Lviv progroms of the Jewish population started. Encouraged and supported by German authorities members of the Organization of Ukrainian Nationalists (OUN) belonging to militias of Stepan Bandera participated in the progroms June 30 to July 2 and July 25 to July-30 (Himka, 2011). More than 6,000 Jews were murdered this first month of German occupation of Lviv. Inciting the local population to round-up, humiliate, and kill Jewish men, women, and children, German propaganda justified the progroms with the NKVD massacres by falsely blaming the Jewish population for it. While OUN leadership never directly endorsed participation in the progroms, they also did nothing to stop their members who participated enthusiastically. Their hatred of Poles and Jews, however, was part of an ideological program modeled on the German and Italian totalitarian regimes headed by Adolf Hitler and Benito Mussolini.


“Jewish woman chased by Ukrainian crowd during the pogrom. Yad Vashem Photo Collection, 80DO2″.

The photo above was taken the first day of the Lviv Progrom July-1, 1941 by an unknown photographer who stands on Vesela Street a block north-east of the Opera House. I walked those streets admiring street art and murals not knowing what had happened on these streets 83 years before: A grown woman has her dress ripped off, has her face bloodied, and is chased with wodden sticks by a mob of teenagers. She has only shoes and undergarments left to protect her, as she runs up a hill in terror while a large crowd of spectators in the background care not. Himka (2011) reproduces this photo and places it into a larger context.

On my way home from Brygidki Prison I pass a beautiful mural that brings me back into the present. The blue and yellow of the mural reminds me of the colors of the Ukrainian flag. The braided flowers on the head perhaps symbolize this person as a women from Ukrainian. In my present sad mind, I see the the same human in both the symbol of a Ukrainian woman in this mural and the actual Ukrainian women in the 1941 photo. The paint peeling reveals red brick and an arch, but I also see an accidental thumbs-up sign in red. The mural is about two blocks west of the Opera House and thus near the center where the Lviv progroms took place.

The bottom photo shows the Opera House from the north. There probably is a story in the small peaceful statue and the building directly behind it, but I do not (yet) know it.

Later that day my first Air Raid Alarm woke me up at night. In this war Vladimir Putin wants to re-establish the old Soviet Empire with the boundaries that Hitler and Stalin had agreed upon in 1939. The past is in the present and both are insane.

P.S.: Edited Oct.-20, 2024 by rewriting the last paragraph and removing some ill-fitting photos.

References:

Himka, J.-P., 2011: The Lviv Pogrom of 1941: The Germans, Ukrainian Nationalists, and the Carnival Crowd. Canadian Slavonic Papers, Vol. 53, No. 2/4, 209-243.

Plokhy, S., 2021: The Gates of Europe, a History of Ukraine, Basic Books, New York, NY.

Snyder, T., 2010: Bloodlands, Europe between Hitler and Stalin, Basic Books, New York, NY.