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Thule on My Mind: Deep Water Port and Air Force Base

I am an air force brat. My father and my father-in-law enlisted in the German and US Air Forces, respectively. They served during the Cold War when I was born in 1961 a few month after the Berlin Wall went up. My father-in-law was stationed in Thule, Greenland, a northern forward base with radars to detect ballistic missiles, fighter jets to intercept planes, and bombers to retaliate in nuclear war. About 60 years later, the fighter jets, bombers, and communist threat are all gone, but the base is still there, and to me it is the gateway to North Greenland. Both US and Canadian Coast Guard icebreakers call its port to receive or discharge crews and scientists such as myself in 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009, and 2012.

An F-102 jet of the 332d Fighter-Interceptor Squadron at Thule AFB in 1960. [Credit: United States Air Force]

An F-102 jet of the 332d Fighter-Interceptor Squadron at Thule AFB in 1960. [Credit: United States Air Force.]

Today about 58,000 people live on Greenland spread over an area three times the size of Texas. On July 9, 1951 about 12,000 men arrived by ships to build the base. The 1953 film “Operation Blue Jay” documents the context, people, scenery, logistics, and construction that made today’s Thule Air Force Base (AFB).

The place should really be called by its native name Pituffik, but in 1953 about 130 Greenlanders living nearby were forcibly moved about 100 km to the north to what is now the town Qaanaaq, population 600. Lots of stories here, but I want to focus on the port of Thule:

Thule AFB with its airport, pier, and ice-covered ocean in the summer. The island is Saunders Island. The ship is most likely the CCGS Henry Larsen in 2007. [Credit: Unknown]

Thule AFB with its airport, pier, and ice-covered ocean in the summer. The island is Saunders Island. The ship is most likely the CCGS Henry Larsen in 2007. [Credit: Unknown]

CCGS Henry Larsen in North Star Bay on Aug.-2, 2012 at the pier at Thule. Dundas Mountain is visible as is the Greenland Ice Sheet in the background to the south-east. [Credit: Andreas Muenchow]

CCGS Henry Larsen in North Star Bay on Aug.-2, 2012 at the pier at Thule. Dundas Mountain is visible as is the Greenland Ice Sheet in the background to the south-east. [Credit: Andreas Muenchow]

Dr. Helen Johnson in August 2009 on the pier of Thule AFB with CCGS Henry Larsen and Dundas Mountain in the background. [Credit: Andreas Muenchow]

Dr. Helen Johnson in August 2009 on the pier of Thule AFB with CCGS Henry Larsen and Dundas Mountain in the background. [Credit: Andreas Muenchow]

Pier at Thule in Aug.-2012 with the Air Force Base and the Greenland Ice Sheet in the background. [Credit: Andreas Muenchow]

Pier at Thule in Aug.-2012 with the Air Force Base and the Greenland Ice Sheet in the background. [Credit: Andreas Muenchow]

The Port of Thule is the northernmost deep-water port in the world. It was meant as temporary structure in 1951 when it was built within less than 3 weeks around 4 barges each 76 meters long and 15 meters wide. These barges contained self-raising jacks to lift themselves up out of the water. Each barge was then supported with 12 concrete filled cylinders with steel-jackets to protect them from moving ice. In 2006 the so-called DeLong pier was repaired as some of the underwater support columns had developed cracks as the steel used in 1951 did not conform to modern engineering standards.

Thule Pier showing support cylinders during its 2006 repair [Credit: Appledorn Marine Engineering Inc., Portsmouth, NH]

Thule Pier showing support cylinders during its 2006 repair [Credit: Appledorn Marine Engineering Inc., Portsmouth, NH]

I learnt all of this last week writing yet another proposal. A group of electrical and system engineers, computer scientists and oceanographers submitted a high-risk proposal to the National Science Foundation. Together we plan to build the prototype of an underwater communication network. I think of it as a cell-phone tower system under water. The goal is to get ocean data transmitted under water over long distances for a long time. This has never been done in the Arctic, but we would like to connect such a network to pier of Thule AFB so that our ocean data can be relayed back via satellites and internet connections. That’s the idea and that’s why Thule is on my mind …

Arctic sea ice near Thule, Greenland during transition from land-fast (Mar.-4, 2013) to mobile (May-22, 2013) ice along with tentative sensor array (red) and 2003 track of bottom survey (blue). Contours are 50, 100, 150, and 200-m bottom depth. Dark areas are open water, white areas are snow or ice, land topography is naturally illuminated by a low sun-angle on Mar.-4. [Data from MODIS Terra.]

Arctic sea ice near Thule, Greenland during transition from land-fast (Mar.-4, 2013) to mobile (May-22, 2013) ice along with tentative sensor array (red) and 2003 track of bottom survey (blue). Contours are 50, 100, 150, and 200-m bottom depth. Dark areas are open water, white areas are snow or ice, land topography is naturally illuminated by a low sun-angle on Mar.-4. [Data from MODIS Terra.]

Elwood, N.J. and J.W. Gaithwaite (2007). Perpetuating a Pier, Civil Engineering, 77 (5), 62-67.

Women In Science: Costs and Benefits

“Science remains institutionally sexist. Despite some progress, women scientists are still paid less, promoted less frequently, win fewer grants and are more likely to leave research than similarly qualified men.” [Nature, Mar.-7, 2013]

This is from yesterday’s special issue of Nature which prompted this tongue-in-cheek comment by Prof. Dr. Cristina Archer:

Can we put a dollar amount to how much it would cost to fill the gender gap with respect to salary disparity?

Here is the procedure:

1) N_w = number of women scientists in the US
2) S_w = average salary of the N_w women scientists in the US
3) S_m = average salary of the male scientist in the US
4) Delta = difference in salary between male and female scientists
5) Tot = total dollars that the female scientists should be receiving to fill the disparity = Delta * N_w

To get a sense of the order of magnitude, here are some values:

1) N_w = 93,400 (in 2008, from the Nature paper)
2) S_w = $60,000 (this is actually the median, not the average, in 2008)
3) S_m= $84,000 (median in 2008)
4) Delta = $24,000
5) Tot = $24,000 * 93,400 = $2,241,600,000 (yes, billions)

For the nerdy of us, I acknowledge that using the median instead of the average might give an overestimate of the final bonus, although the order of magnitude is correct.

Since the gender gap seems very expensive to fill (~$2 billions), it might be cheaper and easier to actually reduce the salary of all male scientists (N_m = 179,400). The total saved would be:

Tot2 = $24,000 * 179,400 = $4.3B (of course billions)

If that money could be donated to NSF, the benefits to research in the US would be incalculable.

So … who wants to be the first male scientist to give up 28% of his salary and start filling the gender gap?

I admit, that I was the first to volunteer.

ADDENDUM: This post is not meant to criticize any institution in any way or form. The fact that these issues are discussed openly reflects both sensitivity and progress towards a common goal of gender equality in science. There is also a student’s perspective that Allison Einolf posted here last summer which includes references to a 2011 NSF study on the issue.

Shades of White as the Sun Rises over Nares Strait

After four months of total darkness the sun is back up in Nares Strait. It transforms the polar night into thousand shades of white as mountains, glaciers, and ice take in and throw back the new light. Our satellites receive some of the throw-away light as the landscape reflects it back into space. During the long dark winter months these satellites could only “see” heat, but this will change rapidly as Alert atop of Arctic Canada receives 30 minutes more sun with each passing day.

Surface temperature in degrees centigrade over northern Baffin Bay on March-4, 2013 16:20 UTC from MODIS Terra.

Surface temperature in degrees centigrade over northern Baffin Bay on March-4, 2013 16:20 UTC from MODIS Terra. Warm colors (reds) show thin and/or ice while cold colors (blues) suggest thick ice stuck in place.

A very strong ice arch at the southern entrance to Nares Strait separates thick (and cold) ice to north from thin (and warm) ice to the south. The thick and cold ice is not moving, it is stuck to land, but the ocean under the ice is moving fast from north to south. The ocean currents thus sweep the newly formed thin ice away to the south. This ice arch formed way back in early November just after the sun set for winter over Nares Strait.

Now that the sun is up, we can also “see” more structures in the ice by the amount of light reflected back to space. A very white surface reflects lots while a darker surface reflects less. We are looking at the many shades of white here … even though I color them in reds and blues:

Surface reflectance at 865 nm in northern Baffin Bay on March-4, 2013 16:20 UTC from MODIS Terra.

Surface reflectance at 865 nm in northern Baffin Bay on March-4, 2013 16:20 UTC from MODIS Terra. A true color image (which this is not) would show only white everywhere. Hence I show the very bright white as red and the less bright white as blue. This artificial enhancement makes patterns and structures more visible to the eye.

Zooming into the area where the ice arch separates thick ice to the north that is not moving from thin ice in the south that is swept away by ocean currents, I show this image at the highest possible resolution:

Surface reflectance at 865 nm at the southern entrance to Nares Strait on March-4, 2013. Contours are 200-m bottom depth showing PII2012 grounded at the north-eastern sector of the ice arch.

Surface reflectance at 865 nm at the southern entrance to Nares Strait on March-4, 2013. Contours are 200-m bottom depth showing PII2012 grounded at the north-eastern sector of the ice arch.

Note, however, that the sun is far to south and barely peeking over the horizon. This low sun angle shows up as shadows cast by mountains. And since the sun is still far to the south, the shadows cast are to the north. This “shadow” makes visible the ice island from Petermann Gletscher that anchors this ice arch as it is grounded. I labeled it PII2012 in the picture.

From laser measurements we know that the ice islands stands about 20 meter (or 60 feet) above the rest of the ice field. This height is enough to cast a visible shadow towards the north (slightly darker = less red) as well as a direct reflection off its vertical wall facing south (brighter = more red) towards the sun. At its thickest point, PII2012 is about 200 meters (~600 feet) thick. For this reason, I also show the 200-m bottom contour that moves largely from north to south along both Ellesmere Island, Canada on the left and Greenland on the right.

The sun brings great joy to all, especially those hardy souls who live in the far north. The sun’s rise also shows the delicate interplay of light and shadows that we can use to solve puzzles on how ice, oceans, and glaciers work. At the entrance of Nares Strait the playful delights of the sea ice, ocean currents, and ice islands gives us a large area of thin ice. The thin ice will soon melt and perhaps has already started to set into motion a spring bloom of ocean plants. Ocean critters will feed on these to start another cycle of life. Whales, seals, and polar bears all depend on it for 1000s of years now.

Sketch of the biological pieces that a large area of open water near a fixed ice edge like that of a polynya may support. [From Northern Journal>/a>]

Sketch of the biological pieces that a large area of open water near a fixed ice edge like that of a polynya may support. [From Northern Journal]

Reflection: One keeper, many souls

Reblogged from The Fourth Continent:

Click to visit the original post

According to Inuit culture in Greenland, a person possesses six or seven souls. The souls take the form of tiny people scattered throughout the body.

By Annie Dillard.

I don't know much about this yet, but the idea of six or seven souls sounds almost overbearing. With just one soul, you can feel enough love, and in times of sorrow, too much pain.

Read more… 72 more words

I just came across these beautiful words and imagery of "A young lady venturing Far North"

Science Writing: George Orwell and Richard Garvine

How to write, read, and review as part of large science teams when millions of dollars are at stake? Writing and reviewing science projects for the National Aeronautical and Space Agency and the National Science Foundation, I came up with a list of 6 loose rules that make for good science proposal writing:

1. Think about your audience, as the message is conveyed best, if the reading is fun;
2. Avoid technical detail, cite the peer-reviewed paper instead;
3. Present and explain the big picture concisely and accurately in engaging ways;
4. Less is more. Focus on the why, not the how;
5. Avoid shady ambiguity, convoluted arguments, and incomplete explanations;
6. If it can’t be said simply, don’t say it.

This list then reminded me of a short essay that George Orwell wrote in 1946 titled “Politics and the English Language.” It concludes with these 6 rules:

(i) Never use a metaphor, simile, or other figure of speech which you are used to seeing in print.
(ii) Never use a long word where a short one will do.
(iii) If it is possible to cut a word out, always cut it out.
(iv) Never use the passive where you can use the active.
(v) Never use a foreign phrase, a scientific word, or a jargon word if you can think of an everyday English equivalent.
(vi) Break any of these rules sooner than say anything outright barbarous.

I read the essay in the spring of 1989 when I spent much time at sea with Richard Garvine. Rich was my PhD advisor and he probably suggested this essay to me, his German graduate student with poor writing skills. Rich taught me both science and writing. I miss him.

Richard Garvine in his office at the University of Delaware in the 1990ies.

Nares Strait 2012: Cruise blog

As the Nares Strait 2012 Team begin their journey out of internet access range, Professor Muenchow would like to mention that University of Oxford’s Dr. Helen Johnson has a Cruise blog with posts about the trip.  Here are the links to her latest three posts:

“The reality of Arctic research”
“Excitement on joining the ship”
“Preparations for the science ahead”

More soon!

Nares Strait 2012: From Thule towards Smith Sound

The CCGS Henry Larsen lifted anchor about 6 hours ago sailing north towards Nares Strait and Petermann Glacier. Air temperatures in port were a balmy 10.5 C this morning, but now have dropped to 6.3 C this evening at sea. We are steaming at almost 9 kts with clear skies overhead most of the day. We hit a fog bank or two and I mistook the blowing fog horn for a fire alarm.

The day was largely spent with setting up gear, re-arranging lab spaces indoors and deck spaces outdoors. The usual drills and introductions to emergency procedures (fire, abandon ship, helicopter) to a few hours, too. Access to the internet is severly limited: it takes about 1 second to send and receive 64 bytes from the ship to either Delaware, England, or California. About 20-40 of these “pings” fail, meaning that actual data transmission and receive rates are even slower.

There are faster connections aboard, but those are limited to the ice observer who receives severely downgraded RadarSat imagery for ice navigation that will guide ship and helicopter for visual observations on where to go and what ice to avoid. Petermann Ice Island apparently moved another 4 km and has its tip now sticking almost into Nares Strait perhaps touching coast near Offley Island at the north-eastern side of Petermann Fjord. That image is 24 hours old, we may receive a new one over night.

Local time (same as Montreal or New York) in 9pm and the sun is still about 30 degrees above the horizon, no darkness all night. Greenland and its ice cap are visible in the distance, about 30 miles to my right. A few icebergs are scattered loosely here and there. We are 48 people aboard … more laters.